SuedexcessWoody Leather Extrait de Parfum

Suedexcess by Devertere is a niche leather, woody and spicy perfume extract, unisex, created by Sofia Bardelli. Released in 2025, it is the house's most intense creation.

An Italian house born to deviate

Devertere is an Italian house of artistic perfumery founded in 2025, established in Cirié, near Turin. It was born from the idea of Lorenzo and Federico Cavoretto, a father and son, united by their passion for olfactory art and the desire to create something authentic and unconventional. The name says it all: devertěre, in Latin, means “to change direction” — a statement of intent for a house that refuses the paths of commercial perfumery. Its fragrances are signed by three noses: Sofia Bardelli, Vincent Ricord and Bertrand Duchaufour. Bardelli, a graduate in pharmacy from the University of Pavia, settled in Grasse after being selected among twelve candidates worldwide to join the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, promoted by Givaudan. 75 ml bottle, an unusual size in niche perfumery.

An opening of bergamot, absinthe and saffron

Bergamot opens brightly, while absinthe brings its green and anise-like bitterness. Cardamom, pepper and saffron immediately spice up the departure and announce the leather.

A heart of birch tar, iris and labdanum

Birch tar leaves its black smoke, while iris brings its cold and buttery powder. Tonka bean, labdanum and balms soften the encounter without calming it.

A base of leather, suede, oud and guaiac wood

Leather and suede — softer, more velvety — form the skin of the perfume. Oud, guaiac wood and sandalwood establish a dense structure and a very long-lasting trail.

The house's signature

Birch tar and iris in the same accord. The former is the darkest material in perfumery — it is what makes Russian leather, smoky, almost burnt. The latter is the coldest and the most powdery. Layering them in the heart creates a tension that usual leathers do not have: smoke and powder, without transition. The base doubles this contrast by placing leather and suede side by side — tanned skin and its velvety version, two states of the same material.

For whom, for what occasions?

Leathery, woody and spicy, this extract is for those who love smoky leathers and fragrances with character. It gives its best from autumn to winter, in the evening, worn equally well by women as by men. Spray sparingly: the concentration does the rest.

With Suedexcess Devertere, Sofia Bardelli places the coldest powder on the darkest material.