The Black KnightAromatic Chypre Extrait de Parfum

The Black Knight by Francesca Bianchi is a niche unisex aromatic, chypre, and woody extrait de parfum. Built around narcissus, one of the most challenging materials in perfumery.

A perfumer with a background in art history

Francesca Bianchi is a self-taught Italian perfumer. After graduating in art history in Florence, she worked in art book publishing before founding her house in Amsterdam in 2016, inspired by a book on natural perfumery. She composes every formula by hand in her laboratory — a process that can take from six months to four years, sometimes even longer — before entrusting production to a small Italian artisanal company. The house operates without investors or a marketing plan. Her perfumes are nicknamed “Liquid Emotions,” and her motto can be summed up in three words: “Everything is personal.”

An opening of mugwort and caraway

Mugwort opens on a bitter, camphorous, almost medicinal herb. Caraway accompanies it with its warm, earthy anise. Two challenging aromatic materials, with no citrus to make them pleasant.

A heart of narcissus and honey

Narcissus takes center stage: green flower, hay, leather, with an animal facet that few flowers possess. Honey and beeswax add body, Bulgarian rose softens it, and iris butter provides the powder that holds the whole together.

A base of oakmoss and leather

Oakmoss provides the chypre foundation, while leather extends the animal facet of the narcissus. Cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli form the dry, earthy backbone.

The house's signature

Narcissus is one of the most difficult materials to use. Its absolute is rare and very expensive, and its scent bears no resemblance to what is expected of a flower: green, hay-like, leathery, with something animalic. Most houses avoid it or dilute it. Here it is the subject, and the rest of the formula — bitter mugwort, thick honey, oakmoss — is built to showcase it.

For whom, and for what occasions?

Aromatic, chypre, and woody, this extract is for lovers of green chypres and flowers that do not smell like flowers. From autumn to winter, for evening wear. It is one of the most demanding in the collection: it is best to know it before choosing it.

With The Black Knight Francesca Bianchi, a flower that houses dilute becomes the subject.